For Luzerne, we recommend light to medium weight twill or gabardine. The fabric must have enough body: avoid wools and rayon blends, or you’ll lose the structure of the jacket. At the same time, the fabric has to have some flexibility to ensure comfort. Stay away from anything too stiff and rigid. Finally, pick something with 100% cotton rather than an elastane blend, which would disrupt the fit and make you have to go down at least half a size. And if you’d like, you could also go for a waxed twill!
Our favorite for this pattern is Robert Kaufman’s Ventana twill, in which we have sewn both of our presentation versions. We’ve used Smokey Pink and Navy colors, but there are so many of them that it was really hard to choose!
One last tip: depending on which size you’re making and the exact width of your fabric, it might be possible to optimize your cutting layout to use less fabric than what is indicated on the pattern envelope. Luzerne needs a lot of fabric and quality twill isn’t cheap, so half a yard can make a nice difference! We recommend creating your personalized cutting layout before buying your fabric. To do so, trace or cut your pattern pieces in your size, make any fit adjustements you need, and place the pieces on a fabric of the same width as your desired fabric, or on a table on which you have marked the fabric’s width using masking tape. This way you can measure the exact yardage you’ll need to make Luzerne!