#Opium# Sewing the Welt Pockets

Written by Camille
October 31 2018 | Tutorials and techniques

The origami-inspired welt pockets are the highlight of the Opium coat. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to sew them easily!

Before we start, a couple pieces of advice:

  • If your lining fabric is very slippery or frays a lot, consider cutting the pocket pieces (#10) out of a cotton lawn or poplin to facilitate these steps.
  • If your main fabric is very thick or you don’t like the look of the double-welts, you can replace them by a simple welt. To do so, cut a rectangle of 21 x 6 cm (8 1/4” x 2 3/8”) and fold it in two lengthwise with right sides together. Sew the sides with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, then turn it to the right side, press carefully and baste the raw edges closed. Then follow the rest of this tutorial.

Here we go!

Poches01

Start by preparing your pattern pieces: for each side, you’ll need a front (#1), four welts (#9), a pocket lining and a deep pocket lining (#10).

Poches02

On each front, apply interfacing to the area where you’ll sew the pockets.

Poches03

On the right side of the fabric, carefully transfer the markings for the pocket position corresponding to your size.

Poches04

Apply interfacing to 4 out of the 8 welt pieces (2 out of 4 for each pocket).

Poches05

Sew each interfaced welt (9) to a noninterfaced welt, right sides together and 3/8” from the edge, leaving the bottom unstitched.

Poches06

Trim the seam allowances, then turn the welts to the right side. Press carefully to flatten them as much as possible.

Poches07

Place the welts on top of each other in two symmetrical piles, making sure that the interfaced sides are facing the same way (here for instance they are all on top). Baste 1/4”from the bottom.

Poches08

On the right side of the coat, align and pin the double-welt to the pocket marking, raw edges facing up, matching the single notch. Interfaced sides should be facing the coat, and the upper triangle should be on top, like on the picture.

Poches09

Pin the pocket lining (the smallest of the two pocket pieces) on top of the welt. Stitch with a 3/8” allowance, leaving 3/8” free on each side of the pocket lining.

Poches10A

Align and pin the deep pocket lining right above the pocket marking, matching the double-notches. Stitch with a 3/8” allowance, leaving 3/8”free on each side of the deep pocket lining.

Poches11

We will now slash the pocket opening, without touching the welts or the pocket linings.

Poches12

Carefully cut the front piece along the marking. Try to stop as close to the seams as possible.

Poches13A

Poches13B

Turn the pocket linings through the slash so they’re completely on the wrong side.

Poches14A

Poches14B

On the wrong side, carefully press the pocket lining and deep pocket lining towards the hem of the coat.

Poches15A

Press on the right side as well.

Poches16A

Poches16B

Poches16C

Roll up the edges of the pocket to reveal the small triangles of fabric on each end of the welts.

Poches17

Poches18A

Poches18B

Stitch these triangles to the deep pocket lining.

Poches19A

Poches19B

Poches20

Stitch the pocket linings together using a 3/8” seam allowance. If your fabric frays a lot, you can choose to serge the seam allowances together to reinforce the pocket.

Poches21B

Press carefully again from the right side.

Poches23B

Pin the welts to the right side of the coat, and topstitch the sides of the welts 1/8” from each edge.

Poches24

Repeat for the second pocket.

Done! You now have two beautiful symmetrical pockets.

Leave a comment!

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Related posts

Related Posts

thumb-lining
Camille | November 15 2018
thumbnail-broad-back
Camille | November 13 2018
thumb-collar
Camille | November 9 2018
#Opium# Everything about Inter...BackUnderstanding Fabric Weight
Worldwide shipping
Fast delivery
French manufacture
Recycled paper