#Opium# Sewing the tailor collar

Written by Camille
November 9 2018 | Tutorials and techniques

The tailor collar of the Opium coat is much easier to sew than it looks. Check out this step-by-step tutorial!

Sewing the tailor collar starts at step 4 in the illustration booklet, once the sleeves have been assembled to the coat. Check before you start that your pieces have been interfaced as indicated (upper collar, under collar, and facings). Let’s go!

col01

Sew the under collars (8) with right sides together. Press the seam open.

col02

Pin the under collar to the coat with right sides together. Be careful not to mix up your pieces,
use the under collar (in two pieces and partly interfaced) and not the upper collar! Match all the markings as you pin: the center back seam of the coat with the center back seam of the under collar, the shoulder dots of the under collar with the shoulder seams of the coat, and the dots on the lapel with the ends of the under collar.

col03

Stitch, leaving 5/8” free on each side.

col04

Trim the top seam allowance and notch the bottom one. Press the seam open.

col05

Stitch the front facings (5) to the back facing (6) with right sides together. Press the seams open.

col06

Similarly to how you assembled the under collar to the coat, now pin the upper collar to the facing with right sides together.

col07

Match the dots of the upper collar with the shoulder seams, and align the ends of the upper collar with the dots on the lapel.

col09

col08

Stitch, leaving 5/8” free on each side. Trim the top seam allowance and notch the bottom one. Press the seam open.

col10

Pin the upper collar to the under collar, with right sides together.

col11

For the next step, fold the neckline seam allowances downward so they don’t get caught in the seam.

col12

Stitch around the collar, starting and stopping right next to the neckline seam.

col13

Pin the facing along the front of the coat.

col14

Make sure to align the bottom of the facing with the marking on the pattern.

col15

Now fold the neckline seam allowances upward so they don’t get caught in the seam.

col18

Stitch the facings to the coat starting on each end of the neckline seam.

col16

When you reach the bottom, pivot and keep sewing, stopping 5/8” from the inside edge of the facing.

col19

Now you can open the neckline seam allowances again. Press if needed so that they lay flat.

col20

You collar is almost done! At this point, it’s possible you might have a tiny gap between the start of the collar seam and the start of the facing seam. This is not a problem, on the contrary! It will allow the collar to lay right so you don’t have drag lines. If the hole is too big, you can always close it with a few hand stitches later.

col21

Trim the angles of the collar and the bottom of the facing.

col22

If your fabric is thick, you can also grade the seam allowances of the facing by trimming one of the layers. This will help reduce bulk.

col23

Turn the collar and facing to the right side. Press carefully.

col24

The last step is making sure that the upper and under collar stay together at the neckline seam, so the collar stays flat. Pin them together right above the neckline seam, then lift the facing up. To hold the two layers together, you have two options. The first is to stitch the notched seam allowances together by machine, as close to the seam as possible and going as far as possible on each side. The second, which we prefer, is to do it by hand.

Your collar is finished! Now you can move on to lining your coat 😉

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