The Cardamome dress has a cinched, smocked waist. A lot of you have asked us if it was possible to make the dress without the elasticated waist, but with a waistband and a zipper instead.
Today, we’ll see how to modify the pattern to do just this!
First of all, you’ll need to cut two additional pieces for the waistband. You can download the waistband pattern here. Print it on A4 or US letter format paper, making sure that you set the print scale at 100%. Check that the test line is 4” long before you cut into your fabric.
You’ll also need to shorten the front (#1) and back (#2) bodices. Trace a line 1 1/2 ” above the bottom of both pieces, following the waist curve, as seen on the following diagram. Cut along these lines to get your new bodice pieces.
Add a mark on the side of both pieces 1 3/8” below the armhole, which will correspond the top of your zipper. You will need a matching 16” zipper (regular or invisible, as you prefer).
To assemble the dress, follow the instruction booklet for step 1 (the bib) and points 3-1, 3-2 and 3-3 (assembling the pockets to the skirt), skipping step 2 (the smocking).
Instead of points 3-4 and 3-5, complete the following steps:
- Interface the front and back waistbands.
- Gather the bottom of the front bodice (#1) and the top of the front skirt (#5) so they match the front waistband.
- Gather the bottom of the back bodice (#2) and the top of the back skirt (#6) so they match the back waistband.
- Join the front (#1) and back (#2) bodices to the front and back waistbands. Finish the seam allowances together and press them downward. Edgestitch the front and back waistband.
- Join the front (#5) and back (#6) skirts to the front and back waistbands. Finish the seam allowances together and press them upward. Edgestitch the front and back waistband.
- Pin the front and back of the dress together, with right sides together, carefully matching every seam and notch. Join the front and back dress by stitching the shoulders and the right side. Press the seam allowances open and finish them.
- Finish the seam allowances on the left side of the dress, and baste the front and back of the dress together to ensure that the waistband seams are matching. Insert the zipper below the bodice mark, and join the front and back dress above and below the zipper.
Finish assembling the dress by following the instructions starting at point 3-6 (the hem).
And here is the result!
You now have a Cardamome dress without an elasticated waist! Don’t hesitate to share the result with us on Instagram with the hashtag #DDCardamome or on the Deer&Doe Flickr group!