To do this, we’ll transform the two pieces of the back into one, we’ll move the zipper to the side and we’ll line the bodice. There are many ways to get this effect, I just decided to show you the simplest one 🙂
Overlay the top and bottom pieces of the back bodice and secure them together with some tape. Trace a copy of the piece on tracing or pattern paper.
Eliminate the seam allowance at the center back: to do this, trace a line at 1,5cm (5/8″) of the left border of the piece. Then draw half a heart using the existing cutout as a guide.
Don’t forget to also eliminate the seam allowance from the center of the back waistband and back skirt.
Cut all the pieces out of your fabric. Don’t forget to carefully place the back pieces on folded fabric (you will surely need more fabric than the amount recommended in the pattern). Also cut the front and back bodice pieces in lining.
Sew the darts of the front and back bodice and sew the shoulder seam of both fabric and lining.
Lay the lining on the fabric with right sides together. Carefully pin all around the heart cutout.
Stitch using a seam allowance of 1,5cm (5/8″). Take your time and go slowly, but keep your seam allowance consistent!
Trim the seam allowance and clip the two points of the heart very close to the stitches.
Turn the lining inside the cutout. Bodice and lining are now wrong sides together.
Carefully press the cutout. Don skip this step, it’s essential for a good looking result!
Finally, baste the bodice and the lining around the neckline and armholes. Continue constructing the dress as indicated in the instructions. Just sew the invisible zipper under your right arm (or the left one, as you prefer).
I hope you liked this tutorial! And if you make this dress, don’t hesitate to show us the result in the Flickr group!