When we decided to stop selling the Pavot jacket, we promised we would add a new spring jacket to take its place in our pattern catalogue. However, copy-pasting was out of question! We took some elements of Pavot’s delicate style and imagined a feminine and urban trench coat, with lots of details and a timeless silhouette.
Here is our moodboard for the Luzerne trench coat:
Luzerne is a fit-and-flare double-breasted trench coat with princess seams, unlined. Its skirt has pleats on the front and back, and diagonal welt pockets. It has two-piece sleeves, which add both comfort and elegance.
Luzerne has many classic details which make it an involved and rewarding sewing project, including a large collar with a collar stand, and bound buttonholes for a couture finish. The back yoke alludes to traditional storm flaps in a more streamlined way. Finally, buttoned sleeve tabs dress up the wrists of the two-piece sleeves.
Luzerne is unlined. This is a stance we took based on several factors: the season it’s designed for, the complexity level we wanted for this pattern, as well as our constraints for printing the paper version. The ease is thus drafted for a jacket with no lining. All visible seam allowances are bounded with bias tape, which also plays a role in shaping the shoulders and sleeve heads!
For the best results, we recommend using a fabric with some drape but still a nice body: avoid drapey wools and thin fabrics, and choose instead a light- to mid-weight twill or gabardine. You might even use a coated fabric or waterproof your finished project so you can wear your Luzerne trench coat in the rain!
francesca, March 21 2017
I love this pattern. (well, all three:) ) When it came out, I deeply regretted having bought a trench from Collectif last autumn. But all the trench patterns out there at the time didn’t attract me – they were either too complex – hey, I work full time! – or they were too simplified… And whilst I love a trench, I have a deep dislike for all the details that hark back to its military past like the storm flaps and epaulettes – I tried to wear my mother’s Burberry but couldn’t for these reasons, so it was donated to our favourite animal refuge’s shop….
So I grabbed this with glee:). Stylish, references trenches without slavishly reproducing them, no military references, feminine, this hit all my buttons. Thank you for a lovely pattern! I love the flowered one on your pinterest board…. but first I’m thinking of some oilcloth from Merchant & Mills…..