Adapting Brume to your body type – part 1

Written by Camille
April 6 2015 | Tutorials and techniques

The Brume skirt has some original style lines with a yoke at hip level, which makes grading it a little bit different, if your measurements fall into more than one size. Today, we’ll see how to adapt the skirt to your body type.

morpho_1Body type 1: shelf hips

Diagnosis : your hip size is larger than your waist size (for example 38 at the waist and 40 at the hips). The volume of your hips starts very high, just below your waist. Here’s an example photo (NSFW).

Solution : you’ll need to modify the skirt yoke.

empiecement_1

Trace the top yoke in your hip size. Draw a line on the top yoke joining the waistband mark to the dot. Cut along the line, leaving a pivot point at the bottom.

Pivot the right side of the piece so that the top overlaps with the left side. To grade down one size (from 40 to 38, for example), you need to overlap the two sides by 2 centimeters (3/4″). Tape the piece in place.

Trace the waistband in your waist size, and the rest of the skirt in your hip size.


morpho_2

Body type 2: low hips

Diagnosis: your hips size is larger than your waist size (for example 38 at the waist and 40 at the hips). The volume of your hips is rather low, more or less at the level of your thighs. Here’s an example photo (NSFW).

Solution : you’ll need to modify the skirt sides.

agrandir

Trace all the skirt pieces in your waist measurement.

Observe at what height your hip measurements reaches its maximum, and mark it on the front and back side pieces. Widen the pieces at this measurement: you will need to add 1cm (3/8″) for 1 size (for example to go from a 38 to a 40).

According to your shape, you can leave the bottom the skirt in the size corresponding to your waist measurement, or widen it to the size corresponding to your hips.


morpho_3

Body type 3: undefined waist

Diagnosis: in the size chart, your hips are less large than your size (for example your waist is a size 40 and your hips are a 38). Here’s an example photo (NSFW).

Solution: you’ll need to modify the skirt yoke.

empiecement_2

Trace the top yoke in your hip size. Draw a line on the top yoke joining the waistband mark to the dot. Cut along the line, leaving a pivot point at the bottom.

Pivot the right side of the piece to spread it away from the left side. To grade up one size (from 38 to 40, for example), you need to move the two sides away by 2 centimeters (3/4″). Trace the piece you’ve obtained on another sheet.

Trace the waistband in your waist size, and the rest of the skirt in your hip size.


You now have all you need to make basic waist adjustments on the Brume skirt!

And if there’s a difference of more than one size between your waist and your hips, nothing prevents you to combine the first two methods for a harmonious result 🙂

In the next post, we’ll see what adjustment to make in case of protruding buttocks (aka FBA: Full Butt Adjustment)!

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