Adapting Brume to your body type – part 2

Written by Camille
April 7 2015 | Brume, Fit Adjustments

In the previous post, we saw how to adapt the Brume skirt if our measurements correspond to more than one size. Today, we’re going to tackle the FBA (Full Butt Adjustment): how to adjust the pattern for protruding buttocks!

When is a FBA necessary?

You graded the hips as explained in our previous post, but the result is not satisfying: the skirt is too big in the front and too snug in the back, and it wrinkles. The side seams of the skirt are deformed and pull toward the back at the buttocks: you need a full butt adjustment.

fba_needed
Image borrowed from Attack of the Seam Ripper!.

How to proceed?

We’ll show the simplest case, that is where only the butt needs an adjustment, but you’re welcome to combine this tutorial with the hip widening you need, if that’s what corresponds to your shape.

Take your waist and hips measurements. Let’s imagine that your waist measurement corresponds to a size 38 and your hips to a size 40. At the hips, you have therefore a circumference 4cm (1 ½”) larger than the size 38. Supposing these 4cm are just distributed at the buttocks, we have then 2cm (3/4″) to add to every half of the back skirt, traced in a size 38.

fba_1

Start by tracing all your pieces in the size corresponding to your waist measurement. Draw a line from the point of the yoke to halfway between the waistband mark and the center back.

fba_2

Cut along this line, leaving a pivot point at the top, than move the parts away from each other. In our case, we move them away by 2cm (3/4″).

fba_3

Redraw the yoke point halfway between the two new points. Trace your new yoke on a new piece of paper.

fba_4

Finally, widen you center back piece by 1cm (3/8″) to the right, and your side back piece by 1cm (3/8″) to the left (if your FBA is made in a different amount, widen each piece by half the amount that you widened the yoke). Starting at the double marks on the pattern, draw the lines and join them to the initial lines of the pieces.

And voila, you made your FBA ! There are no more secrets to adapting Brume to your own body type 😉

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