#Opium# Sewing the Welt Pockets

Written by Camille
October 31 2018 | Opium, Sewalongs

The origami-inspired welt pockets are the highlight of the Opium coat. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to sew them easily!

Before we start, a couple pieces of advice:

  • If your lining fabric is very slippery or frays a lot, consider cutting the pocket pieces (#10) out of a cotton lawn or poplin to facilitate these steps.
  • If your main fabric is very thick or you don’t like the look of the double-welts, you can replace them by a simple welt. To do so, cut a rectangle of 21 x 6 cm (8 1/4” x 2 3/8”) and fold it in two lengthwise with right sides together. Sew the sides with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, then turn it to the right side, press carefully and baste the raw edges closed. Then follow the rest of this tutorial.

Here we go!


Start by preparing your pattern pieces: for each side, you’ll need a front (#1), four welts (#9), a pocket lining and a deep pocket lining (#10).


On each front, apply interfacing to the area where you’ll sew the pockets.


On the right side of the fabric, carefully transfer the markings for the pocket position corresponding to your size.


Apply interfacing to 4 out of the 8 welt pieces (2 out of 4 for each pocket).


Sew each interfaced welt (9) to a noninterfaced welt, right sides together and 3/8” from the edge, leaving the bottom unstitched.


Trim the seam allowances, then turn the welts to the right side. Press carefully to flatten them as much as possible.


Place the welts on top of each other in two symmetrical piles, making sure that the interfaced sides are facing the same way (here for instance they are all on top). Baste 1/4”from the bottom.


On the right side of the coat, align and pin the double-welt to the pocket marking, raw edges facing up, matching the single notch. Interfaced sides should be facing the coat, and the upper triangle should be on top, like on the picture.


Pin the pocket lining (the smallest of the two pocket pieces) on top of the welt. Stitch with a 3/8” allowance, leaving 3/8” free on each side of the pocket lining.


Align and pin the deep pocket lining right above the pocket marking, matching the double-notches. Stitch with a 3/8” allowance, leaving 3/8”free on each side of the deep pocket lining.


We will now slash the pocket opening, without touching the welts or the pocket linings.


Carefully cut the front piece along the marking. Try to stop as close to the seams as possible.



Turn the pocket linings through the slash so they’re completely on the wrong side.



On the wrong side, carefully press the pocket lining and deep pocket lining towards the hem of the coat.


Press on the right side as well.




Roll up the edges of the pocket to reveal the small triangles of fabric on each end of the welts.




Stitch these triangles to the deep pocket lining.




Stitch the pocket linings together using a 3/8” seam allowance. If your fabric frays a lot, you can choose to serge the seam allowances together to reinforce the pocket.


Press carefully again from the right side.


Pin the welts to the right side of the coat, and topstitch the sides of the welts 1/8” from each edge.


Repeat for the second pocket.

Done! You now have two beautiful symmetrical pockets.

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