Simply put, the stitch length setting determines how much fabric is pulled through and sewn on the machine between each stitch. It is almost always measured in millimeters, although occasionally you see it referenced as stitches-per-inch. For this post, we will be using millimeters since this corresponds with the settings on most sewing machines. This means that a 2.5 stitch length setting will sew stitches that are 2.5 mm long, and a 5 stitch length setting will sew stitches that are 5 mm long. A stitch length setting of 0 will stitch in place.
Sewing machines will vary in both how this setting is changed, and the range of stitch lengths offered. While most machines will go up to at least a 4 or 5 mm length, some machines (like our studio Pfaffs) can go up to a 7 mm length.
Luckily, because stitch length is such an important and basic setting it is usually an easy one to find and change on your machine. If you have a manual or vintage machine, the setting is likely to be located on a dial or knob on the front of or the top of your machine. Note that this should not be confused with the stitch width setting, which is often nearby and demarcated with a zigzag-shaped line.
On computerized machines, like the Pfaff Quilt Expression shown here, you can find the setting located front and center on the touchscreen. We love a computerized machine for this because it not only gives us exact precision when choosing a stitch length, but it also has the capability to save our settings for specific fabrics and techniques like the ones we will discuss below.
Learning to sew can feel like learning a new language, and the vocabulary dedicated to various stitch techniques is no exception. Here are some common terms and what they mean for you stitch length settings:
When it comes to different sewing techniques, adjusting the stitch length appropriately can have a huge impact on the final result. Here’s what you need to know about stitch length for some of the most common sewing skills:
The guidelines above are all general rules of thumb, but it’s equally important to consider the fabric itself and adjust accordingly when choosing a stitch length.
Lightweight fabrics: Have you even sewn a delicate fabric only to be frustrated that is gathering and puckering when stitched? A shorter stitch length can help prevent this. For lightweight fabrics, a 2 mm setting for standard seams can improve your results.
Thick fabrics: Heavyweight fabric like denim can require a longer stitch length to get through multiple thick layers. In these instances, try increasing to a 3 mm setting for standard seams.
Fabrics prone to holes: Some materials like leather, vinyl, or suede can produce permanent holes with every stitch. Unlike regular fabric where the stitches will pass through the weave of the fibers, these holes can actually weaken the integrity of the material. To create a sturdier seam, use a longer stitch length to reduce the overall number of holes.
Yvee, April 7 2021
An really useful post. Thank you so much for explaining this in such detsila
Sheila, April 7 2021
Really informative, very easy to follow. Thank you
Bev Waldwyn, April 7 2021
Really useful thank you very much
Carrie, April 7 2021
This is a real eye-opener – thank you so much! I have sewed for more years than I can count but never knew stitch length could make such a difference.
Fran, April 8 2021
Great post!! What about quilting a sandwich of top, bottom and fleece/batting? Recommendations?
Sylvie, April 8 2021
A 2.5 mm or 3 mm stitch length would work well for quilting 🙂
Laura, April 9 2021
Wow, this was extremely informative, comprehensive and helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort! I will definitely save this post and refer to it when necessary.
Marie TEILLET-LOUBOFF, April 16 2021
Un grand merci pour ce cours sur la longueur de point. Je m’apprête à coudre des poches de forme arrondie, je vais donc mettre de suite en application ce que vous venez de m’apprendre ! Encore merci !
Kay, April 7 2021
Thank you for this post, I found it very useful as there is not often guidance within a pattern for this. I found your advice on shortening stitch length on darts particularly interesting. Thank you x