Eucalyptus is a button-up jumpsuit that features a unique two-dart design in the front bodice. It’s designed to have a relaxed fit, but requires a little extra consideration when doing any bust adjustments. Our patterns are drafted for a C or D cup, but if your bust is smaller or larger, no worries: here’s how to adjust the pattern.
First, you will need to determine whether you need a bust adjustment, and if so, how much. To do this, it’s very helpful to make a muslin, since the adjustment amount can vary depending on the silhouette of the garment, your body type, and your preferred ease.
Bust adjustments are not always necessary! Some patterns with a loose fit will work for a wide variety of body types without any need for modification. Depending on your personal style, you may choose to just size up or down.
You’ll want to make sure your muslin fits properly through the shoulders—that is, the armhole sits at the edge of your shoulders and doesn’t fall towards your arm. Likewise, the armhole should not be sitting too high on the shoulder.
- If your muslin feels too tight at the bust and you notice horizontal drag lines, you’ll need a full bust adjustment. Slash the bodice vertically on a few centimeters at the bust apex, on each breast, and measure the gap that forms naturally. This distance is your bust adjustment value.
- If your muslin bags at the bust, you’ll need a small bust adjustment. Pinch and pin the fabric excess on each breast until you get to a fit that you like: the amount of fabric pinned is the value to remove.
Full Bust Adjustment FBA
1/ On the front bodice, mark the bust apex (the point that corresponds to the tip of the bust). Draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grain) from the bust apex to the bottom of the diagonal of the collar. Draw another line from the bust apex to the middle of the armhole. Finally, draw two lines from the bust apex through the middle of each dart.
2/ Slash the bodice from the inner vertical line through the apex and towards the armhole, leaving a small hinge at the armhole. Pivot the side seam piece towards the left until the gap in the dart is equal to half of the bust adjustment value.
3/ Similarly, slash the vertical line through the outer dart towards the bust apex and pivot the side seam piece towards the left until the gap in the dart is equal to half of the bust adjustment value.
4/ Slash the horizontal line from the apex towards the center front. Slide the two unattached pieces down until the feet and tips of the darts are in alignment.
5/ Take a new sheet of pattern paper and trace the edges of the bodice. Draw the dart legs again. Don’t forget to modify the front facing as well!
Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)
1/ On the front bodice, mark the bust apex (the point that corresponds to the tip of the bust). Draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grain) from the bust apex to the bottom of the diagonal of the collar. Draw another line from the bust apex to the middle of the armhole. Finally, draw two lines from the bust apex through the middle of each dart.
2/ Slash the bodice from the inner vertical line through the apex and towards the armhole, leaving a small hinge at the armhole. Pivot the side seam piece towards the right until the overlap in the dart is equal to half of the bust adjustment value.
3/ Similarly, slash the vertical line through the outer dart towards the bust apex and pivot the side seam piece towards the right until the overlap in the dart is equal to half of the bust adjustment value.
4/ Slash the horizontal line from the apex towards the center front. Slide the two unattached pieces up until the feet and tips of the darts are in alignment.
5/ Take a new sheet of pattern paper and trace the edges of the bodice. Draw the dart legs again. Don’t forget to modify the front facing as well!
