#Opium# Lining the coat

Written by Camille
November 15 2018 | Opium, Sewalongs

Our last technical tutorial on the Opium coat is all about lining. Don’t be intimidated, if you take it step-by-step lining a coat is much easier than it looks!

Follow steps 5-1 and 5-2 of the instruction booklet to put the lining together, and press the bottom and sleeve hems of the coat carefully. Now we can move on to assembling the lining to the coat!


To facilitate sewing the lining’s neckline (concave curve) to the coat’s back facing (convex curve), we will clip the lining beforehand. First, staystich the lining by stitching a line just shy of 1.5 cm (5/8”) all around the neckline.


Clip the seam allowance of the lining between the shoulder seams.


Pin the lining to the coat with right sides together, starting by pinning the lining’s neckline to the facing. Match the shoulder seams.


Keep pinning all along the inside edges of the facings, matching the notches.



Once you arrive at the bottom of the front facing, fold the bottom of the lining upward so that the raw lower edge of the lining is aligned with the raw lower edge of the coat. The fold in the facing should be 2.25 cm (7/8”) above the fold in the coat.


Stitch at 1.5 cm (5/8”) all along the facings.


Turn the coat to the right side.


Press the lining toward the inside of the coat.


Insert the lining sleeves in the main fabric sleeves, being careful not to twist the seams. Pin roughly the bottom of each sleeve with its lining (wrong sides together).


Pull the sleeves through the hole in the lining.


Pin the bottom of the sleeves correctly, with right sides together.


You’ll end up with two sleeves (main fabric and lining) holding hands. Check once again that the lining sleeves are not twisted.



Stitch around each wrist at 1.5 cm (5/8”).


Turn the coat to the wrong side. At the bottom of the coat, pin the lining and coat with right sides together.



Stitch, getting as close as possible to the facing. Leave about 30 cm (12”) open in the middle so you can turn the coat.


Turn the coat to the right side.




Fold in the seam allowance of the facing that is peeking out from the bottom of the coat, then close the seam with a few handstitches. Do the same on the other side.


Hand-stitch the bottom of the lining closed.


Press the fold at the bottom of the lining.


The coat seems done, but there is still one important step left: tacking the hems to the coat so that the folds don’t open when the coat is worn. To do so, handstitch the hems to the coat’s body at the bottom and sleeves, hiding your stitching behind the lining fold.


Almost done! Now remove the basting thread from the lining’s center back pleat.

Now you just need to sew the snaps or the belt depending of which version you prefer, and your coat will be finished!

6 commentaires

christina, November 19 2018

If I wanted to add an interlining of something like “THINSULATE CS150 INSULATED WADDING” to add warmth, just to the body, what adjustments should I make? Should I go up a size?

    Camille, November 19 2018

    Yes if your interlining is thick you might need to go up a size so the coat is not too tight, especially at the sleeves.

Toni McNulty, November 22 2018

I’m down to the very last step. Woohoo!!! But, I’m not sure – am I supposed to tack the hem of the coat to the body of the coat under the lining? And just spot tack in a couple places? Same with the sleeves? It’s not really clear what I’m sewing together there. Thanks!

    Camille, November 22 2018

    Yes, tacking the hem of the coat to the body of the coat 🙂 You can spot tack in a couple places for the sleeves, but with the flare of the coat you need to do it in many places to avoid the hem falling down, so we recommend doing it in one continuous line of stitching (as if you were hemming the coat by hand).

hazel, December 6 2018

JJJJ!!!! I’m nearly finished and it looks gorgeous, even if it’s not my usual style. Smiley.

    Camille, December 6 2018

    We’re so glad you like it!

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