From Paris to Martinique p.2

Written by Camille
December 16 2021 | Featured Garments, Sirocco

Click here to view the first part of this series.

. . . to Martinique

(Videos Marietta Nuissier – Photos/Montage Laurence GROS-DESIRS – Audio « Lessons » Kalpee feat. Mortimer)

1. A Crop Top Sirocco

I dreamed of this nude colored Sirocco crop top and pants as my first hack to share under the Martinique sun. The pants are similar to the black jumpsuit I shared in the previous post, but this time you will need to cut 2 of the waistband pieces and leave an opening to slide a piece of elastic through. On the crop top, instead of cutting the waistband pieces, I created a strip the same height as the waistband and attached it like a bias strip across the bottom of the bodice to create a wrap top.

My Little Tip: a wide hem at the bottom of the pants gives them more hold.

Fabric: caramel viscose jersey bought on the market

2. Pajamas or Sportwear

Here is a casual second hack for you, one that is incredibly comfortable in the modal jersey pictured. On the bodice, there is no modification, except that I folded the waistband in half and secured it to the lower bust with interfacing for extra strength. For the shorts, skip the darts in the back and replace the waistband with wide elastic.

My Little Tip: topstitch to prevent the band under the bust from flipping around.

Fabrics: black Bennytex modal jersey and Ma Petite Mercerie cotton jersey with polka dots

3. Inverting the Neckline

It sounds crazy on paper, but I assure you it’s very doable. First step is to hollow out the neckline of the back bodice, which will become the front bodice. I took off about 2 inches and traced the neckline with another pattern (without changing the lines of the shoulders). I decided to sew darts instead of pleats, although I’ve tried this hack with neither and it also works very well. For the bottom, it’s the return of the wide pant silhouette shared previously.

My Little Tip: be careful when drying viscose jersey, as the weight of the wet fabric tends to deform the garment. I prefer flat drying this fiber.

Fabric: flowery viscose jersey from my stash.

4. A Faux Jumpsuit

It doesn’t sound like it (faux jumpsuit!?), but yes it is indeed a Sirocco. For the shorts, I’m not going to ramble – I just made the belt a little higher and added elastic for a better fit. For the top, I used the back bodice of the pattern to create this loose little blouse. First, add 2 cm to center fold line, and scoop out the neckline for the front side only. Remove the pleats and lengthen the tee as much as you want.

You can also add a trendy little detail: shoulder pads, which are attached by hand to the shoulders. You will just need to draw a facing (about 3 cm wide, to be sewn on each armhole and fixed over the edge with a hand blind stitch).

My Little Tip: here’s a simple calculation to finish the neckline. Measure the neckline, and cut a strip that is about 10% shorter. For example, if my neckline is 50 cm, I will cut a 45 cm strip.

Fabric: raspberry milano jersey (much to the happiness of the ladies of Martinique)
Black heeled sandals: EGO at Asos

5. With a Zip Closure

If you are a bit stubborn like me, and you want to sew a Sirocco in a fabric without enough stretch—you can opt instead for a zipper, preferably invisible. This will make it much easier to put Sirocco on, and it’s the only modification I’ve made to this creme version that I love.

My Little Tip: try to pattern match

Fabric: Au Bonheur des Dames Martinique embossed jersey in off-white
Wreath of dried flowers / leaves: Féyi Sèk

I still have a billion ideas for hacking Sirocco, but of course if I did them all . . . we’d still be here. I hope that you have enjoyed these versions and they have inspired you to see beyond the basics. The idea of “hacking,” in its own way, helps us all combat the urge to over consume (patterns, in this case). Some of the versions I’ve shared have been designed especially for these posts, but they will all join my highly-worn collection of Siroccos. It’s become my day-to-day uniform at work, because it is so comfortable without compromising on my style. I can’t wait to see where my imagination will lead me next for my future versions of Sirocco!

Thank you so much Laurence! Which hack was your favorite?

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