From Paris to Martinique p.1

Written by Camille
December 14 2021 | Featured garments

Hello, my name is Laurence GROS-DESIRS (aka Pimsy coud des trucs), and I am a Sirocco addict.

What you might not believe is that I don’t typically like to make the same pattern repeatedly. But the Sirocco jumpsuit has changed my habits like no other. Even better, it’s increased my creativity tenfold, since it’s such an ideal pattern for crazy hacks.

A “hack” is the act of modifying an original pattern to adapt it to your own desires. I have to admit that I love owning a pattern like this, one that feels infinitely hackable.

From my perspective, Sirocco is a great pattern for all body types, ages, and circumstances. I find it very well cut and depending on the fabric chosen, the result can be really striking. With the additional range of sizes, I’m confident it will delight even more people. This is a pattern that allows for a lot of fun and experimentation, and I’m going to show you a small sample of my own design play, explaining how I went about it and achieved these different looks. It is here that I will transport you into my universe, allowing you to see beyond the original lines of the pattern through more or less simple modifications, for more or less daring results.

We’ll start with a few months ago, when I had the opportunity to make a little video about Sirocco in the city of Paris. It was an opportunity to explore the atmosphere of this fascinating city before taking a flight to my favorite island Martinique—a paradise just as suited to Sirocco. Will you follow me?

From Paris…

(photos, video + montage : Nicolas Azède – Audio « Morningchild » Euphoria)

1. The Famous Little Black Jumpsuit

This is undoubtedly my most worn version of Sirocco, featuring wide legs. It’s a very simple modification that involves drawing a straight light (parallel to the grainline), that passes through the lower end of the side pocket, and another straight light that passes through the notches at the knee and crotch. You’ll also have to modify the pocket for the new leg shape. Depending on your choice of fabric, the resulting garment will have a more or less fluid drape. Don’t forget to lengthen the legs if necessary (+10 cm in my case, with a hem of 5 cm).

My Little Tip: use a triple straight stitch for all seams to create foolproof seams.

Fabric: Bennytex black polyester
Wooden ring: Ewa Concept Store (Martinique)


2. For a Casual Effect

The coziest version possible. There’s no special hack for this one, I just kept the straight leg fit from the previous version, but used a shorter length. A stretch fleece fabric makes this citrusy Sirocco incredibly comfortable.

My Little Tip: Overlock all the pieces before sewing the fleece. Let the hems roll for an extra sporty look.

Fabric: Bennytex lightweight stretch fleece in lemon yellow
Glasses: Zalando
Sneakers: Adidas

3. And for a little more glamour . . . a dress

Creating the skirt of this hack is easy. On the front leg piece, draw a straight line parallel to the grainline that passes through the middle of the front, eliminating the crotch curve. Add 1 cm to the fold line to add ease. Repeat these steps for the back leg piece. For the back bust, I opted to use darts instead of pleats, which I prefer more for the shape of my back. 

The extra touch that makes all the difference are the cutouts at the shoulders. This easy modification lends itself well to any top pattern, whether it’s for knits or wovens. Start by drawing a line that is perpendicular to the grainline, approximately 1.5 cm above the notches on the sleeve head. Cut the sleeves here, and sew a small hem with a twin needle before attaching the sleeves as normal. For a nice finish, use bias tape to finish the top of the armscye. It is a little detail that will provide maximum effect.

My Little Tip: If you don’t already have one, invest in a Japanese ruler.

Fabric: heavyweight purple viscose jersey from my stash
Leopard heeled sandals: Sézane

To be continued . . .

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