Camélia is an oversized popover blouse design that features a polo placket and gathers at the shoulder seams. Thanks to the generous ease in this design, you may find that you don’t need to make a bust adjustment (even if you are outside of the C-D cup it is drafted for). However, if you’d like to maintain the intended ease of the pattern, here’s how:
First, you will need to determine whether you need a bust adjustment, and if so, how much. To do this, it’s very helpful to make a muslin, since the adjustment amount can vary depending on the silhouette of the garment, your body type, and your preferred ease.
Bust adjustments are not always necessary! Some patterns with a loose fit will work for a wide variety of body types without any need for modification. Depending on your personal style, you may choose to just size up or down.
- If your muslin feels too tight at the bust and you notice horizontal drag lines, you’ll need a full bust adjustment. Slash the bodice vertically on a few centimeters at the bust apex, on each breast, and measure the gap that forms naturally. This distance is your bust adjustment value.
- If your muslin bags at the bust, you’ll need a small bust adjustment. Pinch and pin the fabric excess on each breast until you get to a fit that you like: the amount of fabric pinned is the value to remove.
Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
1/ On the front bodice, mark the bust apex (the point that corresponds to the tip of the bust). Draw a vertical line (parallel to the grain) from the bust apex to the hem. Draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grain) from the vertical line you just drew towards the center front. Finally, draw a line from the bust apex to the center of the shoulder gathers.
2/ Slash the bodice from the vertical line through the apex and towards the shoulder. Pivot the side seam piece at the shoulder towards the left until the gap in the bust apex is equal to the bust adjustment value.
3. Pivot the side seam piece at the bust apex towards the right until the bottom vertical lines are parallel. Note that this will create a gap at the shoulder.
4/ Slash the horizontal line. Slide the lower piece down until the bottom edges are in alignment.
5/ Tape together and secure the pieces you just adjusted. Take a new sheet of pattern paper and trace the edges of the bodice. Draw the gather line again.
Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)
1/ On the front bodice, mark the bust apex (the point that corresponds to the tip of the bust). Draw a vertical line (parallel to the grain) from the bust apex to the hem. Draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grain) from the vertical line you just drew towards the center front. Finally, draw a line from the bust apex to the middle of the shoulder seam.
2/ Slash the bodice from the vertical line through the apex and towards the shoulder. Pivot the side seam piece at the shoulder towards the right until the overlap at the bust apex is equal to the bust adjustment value.
3. Pivot the side seam piece at the bust apex towards the left until the bottom vertical lines are parallel. Note that this will create an overlap at the shoulder.
4/ Slash the horizontal line. Slide the lower piece up until the bottom edges are in alignment.
5/ Tape together and secure the pieces you just adjusted. Take a new sheet of pattern paper and trace the edges of the bodice. Draw the gather line again.
