In the previous post, we saw how to adapt the Brume skirt if our measurements correspond to more than one size. Today, we’re going to tackle the FBA (Full Butt Adjustment): how to adjust the pattern for protruding buttocks!
When is a FBA necessary?
You graded the hips as explained in our previous post, but the result is not satisfying: the skirt is too big in the front and too snug in the back, and it wrinkles. The side seams of the skirt are deformed and pull toward the back at the buttocks: you need a full butt adjustment.
Image borrowed from Attack of the Seam Ripper!.
How to proceed?
We’ll show the simplest case, that is where only the butt needs an adjustment, but you’re welcome to combine this tutorial with the hip widening you need, if that’s what corresponds to your shape.
Take your waist and hips measurements. Let’s imagine that your waist measurement corresponds to a size 38 and your hips to a size 40. At the hips, you have therefore a circumference 4cm (1 ½”) larger than the size 38. Supposing these 4cm are just distributed at the buttocks, we have then 2cm (3/4″) to add to every half of the back skirt, traced in a size 38.
Start by tracing all your pieces in the size corresponding to your waist measurement. Draw a line from the point of the yoke to halfway between the waistband mark and the center back.
Cut along this line, leaving a pivot point at the top, than move the parts away from each other. In our case, we move them away by 2cm (3/4″).
Redraw the yoke point halfway between the two new points. Trace your new yoke on a new piece of paper.
