When we decided to stop selling the Pavot jacket, we promised we would add a new spring jacket to take its place in our pattern catalogue. However, copy-pasting was out of question! We took some elements of Pavot’s delicate style and imagined a feminine and urban trench coat, with lots of details and a timeless silhouette.
Here is our moodboard for the Luzerne trench coat:
Luzerne is a fit-and-flare double-breasted trench coat with princess seams, unlined. Its skirt has pleats on the front and back, and diagonal welt pockets. It has two-piece sleeves, which add both comfort and elegance.
Luzerne has many classic details which make it an involved and rewarding sewing project, including a large collar with a collar stand, and bound buttonholes for a couture finish. The back yoke alludes to traditional storm flaps in a more streamlined way. Finally, buttoned sleeve tabs dress up the wrists of the two-piece sleeves.
Luzerne is unlined. This is a stance we took based on several factors: the season it’s designed for, the complexity level we wanted for this pattern, as well as our constraints for printing the paper version. The ease is thus drafted for a jacket with no lining. All visible seam allowances are bounded with bias tape, which also plays a role in shaping the shoulders and sleeve heads!
For the best results, we recommend using a fabric with some drape but still a nice body: avoid drapey wools and thin fabrics, and choose instead a light- to mid-weight twill or gabardine. You might even use a coated fabric or waterproof your finished project so you can wear your Luzerne trench coat in the rain!