Zoom on: the Luzerne trench coat

Written by Eléonore
March 20 2017 | Inspiration, Luzerne

The third pattern from this collection, the Luzerne trench coat, is the more complex piece we’ve ever released! If you like a challenge, this one is for you 😉


When we decided to stop selling the Pavot jacket, we promised we would add a new spring jacket to take its place in our pattern catalogue. However, copy-pasting was out of question! We took some elements of Pavot’s delicate style and imagined a feminine and urban trench coat, with lots of details and a timeless silhouette.

Here is our moodboard for the Luzerne trench coat:



The Pattern

Luzerne is a fit-and-flare double-breasted trench coat with princess seams, unlined. Its skirt has pleats on the front and back, and diagonal welt pockets. It has two-piece sleeves, which add both comfort and elegance.


Luzerne has many classic details which make it an involved and rewarding sewing project, including a large collar with a collar stand, and bound buttonholes for a couture finish. The back yoke alludes to traditional storm flaps in a more streamlined way. Finally, buttoned sleeve tabs dress up the wrists of the two-piece sleeves.

Luzerne is unlined. This is a stance we took based on several factors: the season it’s designed for, the complexity level we wanted for this pattern, as well as our constraints for printing the paper version. The ease is thus drafted for a jacket with no lining. All visible seam allowances are bounded with bias tape, which also plays a role in shaping the shoulders and sleeve heads!

For the best results, we recommend using a fabric with some drape but still a nice body: avoid drapey wools and thin fabrics, and choose instead a light- to mid-weight twill or gabardine. You might even use a coated fabric or waterproof your finished project so you can wear your Luzerne trench coat in the rain!

We hope these presentation posts have answered your questions on the new patterns! Next up, we’ll show you our fabric selections!

Un commentaire

francesca, March 21 2017

I love this pattern. (well, all three:) ) When it came out, I deeply regretted having bought a trench from Collectif last autumn. But all the trench patterns out there at the time didn’t attract me – they were either too complex – hey, I work full time! – or they were too simplified… And whilst I love a trench, I have a deep dislike for all the details that hark back to its military past like the storm flaps and epaulettes – I tried to wear my mother’s Burberry but couldn’t for these reasons, so it was donated to our favourite animal refuge’s shop….

So I grabbed this with glee:). Stylish, references trenches without slavishly reproducing them, no military references, feminine, this hit all my buttons. Thank you for a lovely pattern! I love the flowered one on your pinterest board…. but first I’m thinking of some oilcloth from Merchant & Mills…..

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